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Stainless Steel Balustrading Q & A

QUESTION

How do I drill the holes through my intermediate posts, without them being crooked? - Mr D. RILLER

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ANSWER

There are a couple of methods, so pick which one will suit you best and make your own variation if need be.

Method 1

  1. After marking out the position of the hole to be drilled (You should have done this by making up a stick with the distances apart you wish to drill and transferring this distance onto the vertical centre line of the post).
     
  2. Repeat, marking the same distance on the other side of the post.
     
  3. You can drill in just past half way ( put a piece of tape on your drill bit so you know you have not gone too far Drill in from the other side to meet up with the hole you have just drilled.Hopefully, your holes will have met up and you will b able to pass your wire through.
     

Method 2

         If you are very unsure about drilling through posts, you can make up a
         simple jig with 2 pieces of scrap wood.

  1. Nail or screw these 2 pieces of wood (framing stud timber works well eg 90 x 35 mm or similar) together at 90 degrees to form a right angle (Ends must be square or the bracket will not work correctly).
     
  2. Place your drill with drill bit in it, onto the timber bracket and slide the bracket down or up until the drill bit touches the hole marking.
     
  3. Reclamp your bracket so that it is firmly attached to the post.
     
  4. Recheck that the drill bit is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the post. You can now drill through your post.
( Hint ) If you make the bracket piece that the drill rests on , fairly long , it will act as a guide to indicate if the drill is also drilling square to the timber and not angling across the face of the timber).

QUESTION

How do I install the Countersunk Threaded Inserts (CSTI) on a ramp? Is there a different wood screw with an angled exit or a different swaged connecter? - D. Builder

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ANSWER

Normally the builders / balustraders / home renovators that use Countersunk Threaded Inserts to do the following:

1) Work out the distances they wish to space the wires on the vertical posts for the stairs or ramps
2) Drill a pilot hole at the same angle as the rake ( 35 degrees ? ) Using a 5 or 6mm drill
3) If happy with the angle drilled ( use a rod or knitting needle or similar poking out of the hole ) as compared to the handrail , then drill with a 8.5mm drill. Drill 40mm deep to allow clearance at the bottom. Adjust the angle if not happy. When drilling with a 8.5mm drill, drill 40mm deep to allow clearance at the bottom.
4) Drive the CSTI inserts in using a 6mm hex drive bit. You may need to "pocket" the CSTI a bit further into the post so that one side of the lip is not protruding … usually only a few mm.
5) Use a cordless drill to drive the inserts in as it gives you more control and makes it easier.

QUESTION

If I decide to use Lag Screw Swage Terminals (such as System L on your DIY brochure) as fittings on the ends of my wires, is there an easy way to install them asks Richard the Rower and lifestyle seeker at your expense.

See Answer

ANSWER

Yes.
Step 1 : First drill the pilot hole (usually 5mm) to a depth of 50mm
Step 2 : Then place a spare Lag Screw Swage Terminal (LS-ST) into the chuck of your cordless drill
Step 3 : Use the drill to "pre –screw " the thread into the post and screw the spare LS-ST into the wood to its full depth. This will make it much easier to screw the LS-ST that is attached to the wire into the hole as the thread has already been made for it.

Important : Remember run your drill the correct way when pre –screwing the posts …..Anti Clock wise for LHT( Left Hand Threaded ) LS-ST and Clock Wise for RHT (Right Hand Threaded) LS-ST.

Hope this helps
Jim the Stainless Balustrading Expert

QUESTION

How can I save money by installing stainless wire balustrade using masonry posts as the anchor points myself? - Richard the Rower

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ANSWER

There are several ways to attach stainless wires to masonry posts - concrete blocks , solid core bricks , concrete slab walls etc. One of these is to use Eye Nuts as the anchor point for your wires.

  1. Using a suitable Masonry Drill bit, make a 8mm hole in your wall to suit a 8mm Dynabolt (or similar) I suggest you use one that is a minimum of 40mm length, but 65mm or 75mm can be a better length for more grip in some circumstances.
  2. After drilling the 8mm hole to a suitable depth, hammer the dynabolt into the hole. Ensure it is a tight fit.
  3. Tighten the Dynabolt nut with a spanner until the anchor is tight. Do not overtighten your Dynabolt as this does not add much more strength, it just increases the amount of thread protruding from the nut.
  4. After you have tightened it firmly, undo the nut and screw a 6mm Eye Nut (EN-06) to the thread.
    NOTE : If thread is protruding too far into the Eye Nut, then you will need to hacksaw it off ( leave about 8-10mm protruding out of the wall.
  5. You can also put a large OD washer (with a small ID hole) on the Dynabolt thread prior to placing the Eye Nut on, to cover up any chips or marks in the walls if you wish, but this is not essential.
  6. You are now ready to attach your wires to the Eye Nuts. One way to finish the job is to use a fork terminal at one end and a rigging screw at the other.

Good Luck and remember not to hesitate to call us if you have any questions by dropping us an email or phoning Jim (0419 406 192 during business hours) for personal advice.

QUESTION

How do you attach the rigging screws to the anchor points so that they can be tensioned evenly? - Mr Neat.

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ANSWER

You will need to undo the stainless spring wire clip (looks like a key ring clip) and remove the CLEVIS PIN from the jaws of the rigging screw.

Most spring wire clips are designed to undo in one direction only. The sharp angle end will not pass through the CLEVIS PIN hole. Putting the ring clip back onto the CLEVIS PIN is more simple …just push the slightly bent tail of the spring clip into the hole in the CLEVIS PIN and keep pushing it through the hole until it is properly connected.

HANDY TIP : Remember that prior to tensioning , always make sure you have equal amounts of adjustment threads showing on any of your wire tensioning devices eg (Riggings screws , Turnbuckles , Swage studs etc). If you don't , you will find that you may run out of adjustment prior to the wire rope being fully tightened.

QUESTION

Is there a simple way to fit split plastic grommets (bushes) around the wire and into the hole in an intermediate post?

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ANSWER

Using our split grommets is easy and these can be installed after the wire rope has been attached and tensioned . First drill 9.0mm diameter holes into the posts for the grommets to fit into. A depth of 12-15 mm is all that is required, or you can drill all the way through your intermediate post if you wish. It doesn't really matter.

Using a suitable round pen, pencil, etc, push the pointed end into the grommet. Keep pushing until the side of the grommet splits open about 5mm. Hold the pen with the slit side of the grommet touching the wire. Then push the grommet onto the wire as you remove the pen from the grommet.

The split in the grommet will remain open momentarily and wrap around the wire. Squeeze the grommet closed and push into the 9.0mm hole in the post. Job done !

QUESTION

How do you attach the rigging screws to the anchor points so that they can be tensioned evenly? - Mr Neat

See Answer

ANSWER

You will need to undo the stainless spring wire clip (looks like a key ring clip) and remove the CLEVIS PIN from the jaws of the rigging screw.

Most spring wire clips are designed to undo in one direction only. The sharp angle end will not pass through the CLEVIS PIN hole. Putting the ring clip back onto the CLEVIS PIN is more simple …just push the slightly bent tail of the spring clip into the hole in the CLEVIS PIN and keep pushing it through the hole until it is properly connected.

HANDY TIP : Remember that prior to tensioning , always make sure you have equal amounts of adjustment threads showing on any of your wire tensioning devices eg (Riggings screws , Turnbuckles , Swage studs etc). If you don't , you will find that you may run out of adjustment prior to the wire rope being fully tightened.

QUESTION

Is there a simple way to fit split plastic grommets (bushes) around the wire and into the hole in an intermediate post?

See Answer

ANSWER

Using our split grommets is easy and these can be installed after the wire rope has been attached and tensioned . First drill 9.0mm diameter holes into the posts for the grommets to fit into. A depth of 12-15 mm is all that is required, or you can drill all the way through your intermediate post if you wish. It doesn't really matter.

Using a suitable round pen, pencil, etc, push the pointed end into the grommet. Keep pushing until the side of the grommet splits open about 5mm. Hold the pen with the slit side of the grommet touching the wire. Then push the grommet onto the wire as you remove the pen from the grommet.

The split in the grommet will remain open momentarily and wrap around the wire. Squeeze the grommet closed and push into the 9.0mm hole in the post. Job done !